Short Rib Ragu with Pappardelle

Pat the short ribs dry and season generously with salt and pepper. Let sit at room temperature 45–60 minutes if time allows.

Heat a large Enameled Cast Iron Dutch Oven over medium. Working in batches, sear short ribs on all sides, including edges, until browned, 2–3 minutes per side. Adjust the heat as needed to avoid burnt bits, which can cause bitterness in your sauce. Transfer seared ribs to a Sheet Pan or Platter.

Pour off fat into a medium bowl. If it’s light to medium brown, return 2 Tbsp. to the pot; if it’s blackened and burnt, wipe out the pot and add 2 Tbsp. fresh oil. Heat over medium and add onion, carrot, and celery with a pinch of salt (don’t season too heavily at this point). Cook until vegetables are softened and just starting to brown, 8–10 minutes.

Preheat oven to 300F. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, until it’s brick red, 1–2 minutes. Deglaze with wine, scraping browned bits and simmer until reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Stir in tomatoes, then tie a sprig of thyme or oregano around the rest of the sprigs (or use a piece of butcher’s twine, whatever is easier for you) and drop into the pot along with the Parmesan rind, if using. Return the short ribs to the pot and pour in enough broth to mostly cover but not submerge them, up to 2 cups. Bring to a simmer, cover, and transfer to oven. Cook until meat is tender and falling off the bone, 3–3 ½ hours, checking occasionally and adding a splash of broth or water if the liquid reduces too much. (Alternatively, cook gently on the stovetop over low.)

When the meat is tender, transfer the ribs to a Sheet Pan or Platter and discard the herb bundle and Parmesan rind. Remove the meat from the bones, discard bones, and shred the meat using two forks before returning it to the sauce. If you notice connective tissue around the ribs, it’s up to you whether to include it or discard it. I like to snip it into very small pieces with kitchen shears or finely chop it with a knife and stir it back into the sauce. Taste and adjust seasoning.

To make the garlicky breadcrumbs, heat a medium Stainless Clad Frying Pan over medium. Add oil, then garlic, stirring constantly until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add breadcrumbs and toss to coat, cooking until golden brown and crisp, 3–5 minutes. Stir in red pepper flakes, then quickly transfer to a medium bowl. Stir in Parmesan, parsley, and lemon zest. Season with salt to taste.

Meanwhile, fill a large Stainless Clad Stockpot fitted with a Pasta Insert with water and bring to a boil. Season generously with salt and cook pasta 1–2 minutes less than package directions. Reserve ½ cup pasta water, then drain. Return pasta to Stockpot and heat over medium. Add ragu, a few ladlefuls at a time, with a little reserved pasta water, tossing until pasta is as coated as you like.

Plate pasta and finish with garlicky breadcrumbs, if using, extra Parmesan and a drizzle of olive oil.