Ever wondered what a mole is and why it's closely associated with Mexican cuisine? Look no further.
Truly a sauce of legend in Mexico, mole's name is thought to come from the indigenous Aztec word molli (sauce) and mole (mix). Some claim that mole's creation was the result of a last-ditch effort by Mexican nuns to cook a meal worthy of serving to a visiting archbishop from a hodgepodge of available ingredients, and the unusual mix of ingredients was the perfect accident.
What's In Mole?
Regardless of its true origins, modern mole mixes together an intentional array of ingredients, combining traditional ingredients and methods used in ancient Aztec culture with the modern spices introduced to Mexico by Spanish invaders and Caribbean trade routes. A versatile sauce, a single mole recipe can contain more than twenty, or even thirty, ingredients. Its consistency ranges from broth-like and runny to thick and sticky, and the sauce varies in colors from dark black and brown to bright red and yellow. Modern mole sauces usually include chili pepper, fruit, nuts, spices (black pepper, cumin and cinnamon), and even chocolate.
With no set recipe, contemporary moles are open for experimentation (and a great sauce for resourceful home chefs)! However, a few mole variations have become popular and are widely recognized as mole in both Mexico and the United States.
Favorite Modern Mole Varieties
In the United States, mole usually refers to mole poblano, the most loved variety served north of the border. Yet, in three of Mexico’s regions, there’s still some flexibility when it comes to making mole:
Puebla - The ever-popular mole poblano comes from Puebla. Chocolate gives this mole its dark color and balances the heat from mulato peppers. The people of Puebla traditionally serve this mole at celebrations like weddings and Cinco de Mayo.
Oaxaca - Oaxaca popularized varieties of mole including mole amarillo, chichilo, coloradito, negro (the most popular) and mancha manteles (tablecloth stainer). These moles feature diverse ingredients, vary in color from red to black, and they range in taste with both sweet, fruit-based and savory onion-based recipes.
San Pedro Atocpan - This community near Mexico City is responsible for popularizing the mass production of mole powders and pastes after the invention of the mill. The most common recipe from this area is mole almendrado, which features almonds grown in the region.
How Is Mole Made?
The traditional method for making these types of mole are laborious and time-consuming. All ingredients are typically roasted and ground into a fine powder or paste. The ground mole base is then mixed with water or broth and cooked in a heavy sauce pan, stirring continuously to prevent burning. The sauce is simmered until thick. If the mole recipe contains chocolate, it is not added until the very end of the cooking process to preserve its cocoa flavor.
Tips and Tricks from Made In for the Home Chef Making Mole
Although milling your roasted or dried ingredients in a traditional molcajete is the proper way to make a mole powder (and will bring out a stronger taste), you can use a food processor or grinder to speed up the process. Before grinding, use a skillet to roast nuts and a bottom-heavy sauce pan to soften peppers and/or fruit.
We love the Mole Amarillo recipe from Bon Appetit as a gateway into mole-making. The spices can be hard to track down in your local grocery store, so try checking out an online spice supplier like Spice Trekkers or Penzy’s to see if you can get what you need.
Photo: Bon Appetit
Once you’ve made a mole, you’re able to keep it for up to a week, giving you the flexibility to serve your sauce over pan grilled chicken, fish, shrimp, pork or beef and enchiladas.