Brine the wings: Add salt, baking powder, garlic powder, light brown sugar, onion powder, sweet paprika, black pepper, chipotle chile powder, cumin, oregano, and cayenne pepper (if using) to a large bowl and whisk to combine. Pat wings very dry with paper towels and add to bowl with BBQ rub, tossing to coat. Place a cooling rack over a Sheet Pan and set wings on top. Chill, uncovered, at least 6 hours, preferably overnight (but no more than 24 hours).

Make the Scallion-Ranch Dressing: Trim root ends and any withered portions of the green tops of scallions. Thinly slice the green half of 1 scallion and set aside for garnish. Cut the remaining scallions lengthwise in half, then again lengthwise into quarters. Finely chop scallion and transfer to a medium bowl. Add buttermilk, mayonnaise, sour cream, vinegar, garlic powder, onion powder, oregano, salt, pepper, and sugar. Whisk to combine , then chill until ready to use. (Makes about 1 ¼ cups.)

Prepare a grill for two zones—medium and medium-high. Heat Grill Frying Pan over the medium zone until hot, 3–5 minutes. Working in 2 batches, add wings to Grill Frying Pan and grill until skin is starting to brown and fat is rendering, about 5 minutes.

Turn wings and continue to grill, turning occasionally, until cooked through (internal temperature next to bone should be 165F), about 5 minutes more. Carefully transfer Grill Frying Pan to the medium-high zone  (the handle will be hot!) and continue to grill until skin is crispy, brown on all sides, and lightly charred, 5–7 minutes more.

For crudite, cut carrots and celery into sticks and halve radishes, if using. Add crudite to a medium bowl and squeeze lime juice over. Season with a pinch of salt, toss to combine, and arrange on a Serving Platter with wings. Sprinkle crudite with a little chipotle chile powder, if using.

To serve, arrange the wings and crudite on the platter. Top Scallion-Ranch Dressing with reserved sliced scallions and a little more black pepper, if desired, and serve alongside wings.